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Rottnest Island Might Be WA’s Most Underrated Winter Escape
Think beach firepits and mulled wine at dusk, truffle-laced pasta by the water, and quiet cycling trails with barely another soul around.
We know Rottnest Island for its summertime self, but after spending the weekend at Samphire Rottnest this winter, I’m officially converted. Away from the summer crowds, Rottnest slows right down: firepits and mulled wine on the beach at dusk, truffle-topped pasta by the water, quiet cycling trails and the overwhelming feeling of having the whole island to yourself. And compared to driving three hours for the usual southwest winter escape, a quick ferry to WA’s island paradise felt truly luxurious. Here’s how to spend a weekend at Rottnest’s calmest time of year.
Getting to Rottnest Island
Most of my travel day’s start with a mad rush to get out the door on time, but the fear of missing the last ferry of the day does pretty amazing things. For once, my partner and I were packed and on the road well ahead of schedule, landing at B-Shed in Fremantle with half an hour to spare before boarding the breezy 30-minute Rottnest Express ferry. This left ample time for a pre-departure drink in the sunshine at the Freo Harbour Bar, where you can watch your boat arrive with a drink in hand. A much better way to ease into your holiday than hustling to make the ferry.
If you’ve got more time up your sleeve, you could also book the ferry from Barrack Street Jetty in the CBD instead and extend the boat ride portion. Taking about 90 minutes, this route weaves slowly down the Swan River, opening up picturesque views of some of Perth’s prettiest waterfront burbs before making the ocean crossing to Rottnest.
Sitchu Tip: If the weather looks rough, the ferry can be a little bumpy. Try go for a seat in the middle of the boat, preferably up top where you can see the horizon. I find it helps keep any sea sickness at bay.
Once you land, you’re only a few minutes walk away from Samphire, where we were lucky to be hosted for the weekend. As you make your way down the jetty, you start to get a sense of how protected Rottnest really is. The entire island is a Class A Reserve (the highest level of public land protection in Western Australia), so development is limited and there’s practically no cars, other than some staff vehicles and hop-on-hop-off buses. Instead, wide open pathways framed by peppermint trees are filled with barefoot kids, bike riders and quokkas. In summer, there’s a general busyness that comes along with the relaxed vibe, as day-trippers and hordes of tourists fight for space. But in winter, there’s a noticeable hush and the feeling of having it all to yourself, at least for the weekend anyway.
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Where to Stay on Rottnest Island
Rottnest Island’s ease is a big part of its appeal, and this is where Samphire really shines. Located on Thompson Bay, a short walk from the ferry and the main settlement, the beachfront location is easily the most convenient, with everything you could need within walking distance: beach views, bike hire, general supplies and plenty of high-end dining. It’s also one of the more luxurious stays available, with 80 coastal chic rooms to check into, ranging from oceanfront to poolside. Each celebrates indoor-outdoor living with large glass doors that bring the sound of nearby waves crashing into your room. There’s also all the usual mod-cons: an enormous bed, fluffy bathrobes, a rainfall shower, a mini bar, a pod coffee machine and a TV you can actually cast your own flicks to. Plus, in-room dining and massage services too.
We checked into one of the poolside rooms on the second level, which has a balcony overlooking the lush lagoon-style pool area. I’ve also stayed in one of the more premium oceanfront rooms before, which backs right onto Thompson Bay. Both are gorgeous, but if you plan on spending plenty of time relaxing in your room, the oceanfront rooms are worth the splurge. Opening up to the beach each morning is something else, plus they’re just that little bit more spacious.
Other stays worth checking out include The Lodge Wadjemup, a newer hotel located just behind the main settlement, with a range of room types at different price points. While this isn’t beachfront, it does have sunset views over the salt lakes, great on-site dining, a luxe pool and contemporary rooms, so it’s another great pick if you’re chasing a resort-like experience. For something more unique, there’s Discovery Rottnest Island’s glamping tents. I’ve stayed during winter and loved the experience, although it’s worth noting the family atmosphere; with only a tent between you and the kids playing outside, it’s not the most romantic stay for couples. There’s also the island’s traditional cottages, which offer a no-frills, self-contained stay that’s great for families and larger groups.
Where to Eat & Drink on Rottnest Island
Our first port of call was Samphire’s exclusive Beach Club. Here, you can order drinks from the Bayside Bar and enjoy them down on laidback beach seats in the sand as curious quokkas hop past. The experience might sound better suited to summer, but I’d argue otherwise. For one, you’re not dripping in sweat. But also, the addition of mulled wine and firepits on the beach presents a compelling case. With the fires lit at 5pm every evening, the sunset atmosphere is pure magic, so arrive early to snag a prime spot.
From there, you’ve got plenty of nearby dining options. Lontara, Samphire’s high-end Indonesian-inspired restaurant, was a standout. Start with the Ped Ma Hor, a tropical flavour bomb that marries caramelised duck and snow crab with finger lime, roasted peanuts and slices of fresh watermelon and pineapple. Then work your way up to the melt-in-your-mouth lamb shoulder rendang and tender Balinese Bebek Betutu.
There’s also Isola Bar e Cibo, Samphire’s Italian dining hotspot. Here, the produce may be unmistakably West Australian, but the kitchen and crew are predominantly Italian, and it shows. The vibe is warm and friendly, the food is generous and comforting, and the spritzes are always good. Whatever you do, do not skip the wood-grilled whole Skull Island prawns, the crayfish butter they come served on is unreal, and make sure you add Manjimup Black Truffles to something.
Surprisingly, one of my favourite meals of the weekend ended up being at Hotel Rottnest, the island’s humble pub. Located steps from Samphire, with a large outdoor area overlooking the beach, this very much feels like the heart and soul of Rottnest whenever the weather is nice. Even in winter, there’s the odd rowdy table of guests enjoying an afternoon of drinks by the beach. We pulled in after cycling the island, and the combination of a garlicy chicken pita, well-seasoned hot chips and an ice-cold Matso’s Ginger Beer in the sunshine felt truly healing.
Sunsets Bar & Dining at The Lodge Wadjemup is another great lunch or aperitivo option, with a solid Mediterranean menu and one of the island’s best wine lists. There’s also a fireplace inside to keep you cosy and warm on cold days.
Breakfast, meanwhile, can be found back at Lontara, where it swaps its Indonesian fare for a continental buffet and made-to-order modern Australian breakfasts. You can also find grab-and-go bites at Rottnest Bakery, which is located in the main settlement, and at Pelican, the coffee kiosk attached to The Lodge Wadjemup.
What to Do on Rottnest Island in Winter
In summer, your days revolve around Rottnest’s beaches. But winter invites you to experience a whole different side of the island.
We took the opportunity to ride around the whole island, exploring sections we wouldn’t normally make the effort to get to when it’s 40 degrees. Quiet, winding roads cut through undulating dunes covered in native flora, before opening up to striking cliffs and ocean lookouts (where you might just be lucky enough to catch passing whales), making for a spectacular ride, no matter which direction you take. Guided hiking tours with The Hike Collective are also available if you’d prefer to tackle the terrain on foot.
Sitchu Tip: Bikes can be hired from Pedal & Flipper Hire. When they ask whether you want to add on a gel seat, your answer should be yes. Trust me, it’s worth it.
Chasing something a little more playful? The Rottnest Island Golf Course offers 18 pristine holes covering rolling tree-lined greens, flowing creeks and fairways, as well as a putting green and lawn bowls back at the clubhouse. While Rotto Racket Sports brings pickleball fun to the island, with self-serve equipment hire available down by the courts.
The Wadjemup Museum makes for an insightful stop between adventures. From its 40,000-year-old artefacts to the immersive audio experiences, this is your chance to pause and reflect on the island’s complex history. After making your way through the 17 exhibits and sculpture garden, you’ll step out with a whole new level of respect for the land you’re on.
For something a little more indulgent, there’s always an in-room massage. Samphire offers a range of exclusive spa treatments, from warming body scrubs and facials to full-body deep tissue massages; just book your relaxing moment with reception. During winter, guests can also enjoy whisky tastings on Friday afternoons and morning yoga sessions and pilates classes down by the beach on weekends.
When all else fails, there’s nothing better than just setting off on a wander and seeing where you end up. We spent our final morning walking along the coast from Samphire to Bathurst Lighthouse (located next to Pinky’s Beach). On our way back we headed inland and through the main settlement via the Rottnest Island bakery, soaking up the fresh morning air over a pastry and coffee. You can’t argue with that.
Now you’ve experienced the magic of winter on Rottnest Island, why not check out these other amazing day trips from Perth. Or delve into the beauty that are these spectacular national parks around the state.
