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Subscribe A Taste for the Unexpected: An Expert’s Take on Food and Drink Pairings
Franca's Luke Davenport shares why tradition and innovation can (and should) coexist on the plate—and in the glass.
Luke Davenport knows a thing or two about flavour. After sharpening his culinary skills at globally-renowned institutions—including Noma under the legendary René Redzepi, an unpaid stint at Hart Bageri and a turn at Michelin-starred The Ledbury in London—he’s now Head Chef at Franca Brasserie, where he brings an innovative and diverse culinary style to the much-loved menu.
While he’s passionate about fusing different culinary traditions, particularly Japanese, to add depth and surprise to his dishes, the foundation is rooted in French cuisine.
“I love that French cooking is the basis for so many other culinary traditions,” he tells Sitchu.
“A lot of the techniques used in French cooking have so many other applications and can be fused with other techniques to add complexity to cooking. When I was first starting, I came to realise that no matter what type of cuisine I was cooking, there always seemed to be a component that led back to French cookery.
“I really love the nitty-gritty of the basics in French cooking and have a slight obsession with sauces. Everything from making the base of a stock to that becoming more complex and delicious on the plate.”
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It’s an obsession that’s allowed him to craft bold and unexpected food pairings—so we’ve asked him to share his take on the sips and snacks that are bound to create a buzz around the dinner table.
From the traditional to the unexpected, here are Luke Davenport’s go-to pairings when it comes to creating a little bit of culinary chemistry.
Chablis and Oysters
“As far as pairings go, I really believe that some of the classics are classics for a reason. Starting with Chablis and oysters. I love to start a meal with freshly shucked oysters. I think Sydney rocks are the best oysters in the world, and I am willing to argue with anyone who disagrees.
“A Chablis is the perfect match in my opinion, with its high acidity and mineral notes—matching perfectly with fresh, briny oysters.”
Champagne and Fried Chicken
“A pairing that I think works, and some might disagree and frown upon—champagne and fried chicken. Once you try it, you won’t look back.
“One of the first dishes I put on at Franca was a torched Japanese scallop in between two discs of roasted chicken skin, which is then topped with a quenelle of caviar. I think this dish in particular works well with champagne; the fresh and clean flavours of the champagne balance nicely with the fattiness of the chicken skin and also with the delicacy of the caviar. And this is a nod to one of my favourite, slightly unusual pairings.”
Cheese and Vin Jaune
“I’m a sucker for a cheese plate. Another part of French food that no one else can come close to is their ability to make the world’s best cheese. There are some amazing cheese producers in Australia, but I still think no one quite does it like the French.
“A pairing that works well is an aged Comté with a glass of Vin Jaune. They share similar nutty, savoury flavors from the Jura region. The wine’s acidity and slight saltiness cut through the cheese’s richness, while its oxidative notes match Comte’s aged umami depth.”
Duck and Pinot Noir
“Next is another classic. Duck and Pinot Noir. Duck’s gamey, rich meat matches perfectly with Pinot Noir’s silky tannins and bright acidity. A classic Burgundy works perfectly with our Whole roasted duck dish at Franca.
“The red fruit flavours help to contrast the duck’s fat and help to lighten up the whole dish alongside the bitterness of the roasted radicchio.”
Apple Tarte Tatin and Aged Whisky
“To finish a meal, my favourite dessert of all time is the classic apple tarte tatin. The caramelised apples, butter and flakey pastry call for something with depth and warmth. For me, that is a nicely aged whisky. Something with notes of vanilla, caramel and a touch of spice balances out all the sweetness and buttery flavours of the tatin.
“The gentle heat of the spirit enhances the dessert’s richness and amplifies the flavours of the caramelised apples, making it a perfectly comforting pairing.”
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